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Rhinestone Fever

Let’s face it.  If you dance ballroom, you have rhinestone fever.  If you’re new to this and you think it’ll never happen to you, I’m sorry to say, just wait.  In the beginning levels, particularly in amateur, some competitions restrict the acceptable adornment on dresses.  Thus you’ll see my first few dresses utilized glitter fabric and bright colors to catch the eye where I would have preferred to rely on stones. 

It seems the higher the level, the more rhinestones are required.  This can be quite the quandary for those of us dancing on a budget.  Plan ahead: ordering stones on the internet is always cheaper.  I also usually start with just enough stones to get by, and add more as I can afford them.  This also gives you a chance to make sure you like how your dress is dancing before you pour a few hundred dollars into decorating it.

If you are just starting out, here are the basics of rhinestone application:

You’ll need:

1. Rhinestones.  Be a snob.  Buy the Swarovski crystal.  It really does shine brighter.  You have the choice of Austrian or Korean crystal too.  For a beginner dress perhaps you can get away with these, but the re-sale value will be correspondingly less.  Also, many colors come in “AB,” aurora borealis, which means that the underlying glass has been coated with a special iridescent finish that shines with a variety of colors.  These add extra sparkle.  And are more expensive.

2. Glue.  I’ve always used and loved Gem-Tac.   How can you say no when their sales line is “Add a bit of BLING to everything!”  You have some options here too, many people recommend E6000 or other brands.  

3. Applicators.  Some people buy a glue syringe for more accurate application.  You will also need some kind of tool to pick the rhinestones up with.  Many people use tweezers, though I’ve tried multiple kinds and never got the hang of it.  I prefer a plastic applicator with a wax tip.  You can mold the shape of the tip using your fingers.  I’ve been told people create this at home with toothpicks and chewing gum.  Sounds gross to me!

Now for the fun part! 

Set yourself up in a well-lit area where you can spread out.  Put some paper or cardboard under the dress to protect the surface below and to prevent the glue from attaching multiple fabric layers.  Don’t use newspaper – the ink will rub off on your dress!

I typically have a general pattern in mind when I start stoning, but I don’t mark anything.  For the front of a dress or a really complicated pattern, you might draw it out on paper first and have that next to your dress as a guide.  If you’re simply filling in spaces, using your eye and applying stones in a relatively even way is probably fine.  Remember that using different colors & sizes will create different looks.  This part can be really creative!  Generally,  I just go for it (surprise, surprise) and start by putting about 10 drops of glue on the fabric at a time.  Then using the applicator, I place one stone on each drop of glue.  You will have to play with the best way to get the stone to come off the applicator, sometimes a twist will do it, sometimes you’ll have to use a finger to knock it off.

Be careful when you’re putting your drops of glue on the fabric that you don’t get sloppy.  Check out the picture on the left.  Some of those droplets are small — but others got too big and are actually dripping!  Eek!  While the glue will dry “clear” — it wont’ be seen while you’re dancing — up close you will be able to tell.  Some people use a syringe to try to be more accurate.  I just try to slow down and be more precise!

Don’t forget to let your dress dry for 24 hours before dancing!  If you’re anything like me, you’re probably sewing up to the deadline, and certainly stoning through the night.  To the extent possible, plan ahead.  You don’t want your precious stones (and hard-earned cash) flying off as you dance! 

Happy stoning!

Tags: Applicator, Crystal, Glitter Fabric, Glue, Rhinestones, Swarovski

Finish what you start.

I’ve been in a bit of a sewing funk the last couple of months.  I can blame it on being stuck in a designing rut on the smooth gown I’m working on, but frankly I just haven’t felt like sitting down to do it.  Things have been a little crazy both professionally and personally lately; in a way I think I don’t want to face my thoughts while I sew.  Le sigh. 

But today I decided I had to get over that hurdle and get something done.  One of the very first sewing projects I started in my old apartment was a duvet cover.  I did the entire project, but never actually made a way to close the bottom.  For a while I used safety pins, but then I kept poking myself in my sleep.  Then I just left it open, and the comforter would wiggle its way out adding to the disastrous appearance of my bedroom.  Then I gave it up all together and just threw the comforter on my bed without the cover at all. 

I am proud to say today I faced both my machine and the pesky duvet cover: I sewed in velcro closure along the bottom.  Although it’s not much, I must say, it always feels good to finish the things I start.

Smooth Gown Sew-A-Long: The Bodysuit

Every dance dress is built around the bodysuit.  Finding or making a pattern that works for your body is key.  I got lucky: McCalls 5136 (bodysuit A) works pretty well for me.  I tend to leave a little extra space for the *muscle* in my trunk (ha) but with some modification I use it faithfully.  If you don’t know how to make your own pattern & your proportions are pretty standard give it a try.

In any case, here’s what you need to do to make the bodysuit/leotard around which the rest of the dress will be built:

1. Cut out the pattern pieces on the fold.

2. Most likely the pattern you start with won’t have panels, so darts are required on the front piece.  I used to find darts pretty tricky, even with a pattern giving me the proportions.  I think the trick is to put a pin in the center point, and hold it up while folding the fabric below.  Because you’re working with 4-way stretch, use a medium zig-zag stitch to secure the darts.  In an ideal world the outside edge of the fabric will still line up perfectly even with the fold — you’ll see below that I’m pretty close but that it’s not perfect.  I’m going to leave it; honor your own OCD tendencies.  I won’t stop you.   

 3. Now the front and back pieces need to be connected.  The directions on any pattern will tell you to stitch the sides & crotch together, leaving the leg holes open.  They will also tell you to do elastic at this point.  Note that I’m not going to close the crotch or add elastic because it prevents me from fitting the dress on the dressform as we go forward.  So we are really only sewing the side seams (read: this is easy!). I would recommend this until you are through fitting.

I’m going to run a zig-zag on my standard machine to make sure that I get it right (it’s so much easier to rip if I make a mistake!).  Then I’ll go over it with the serger to make a perfect edge.

4. Now the moment I’ve been waiting for… the debut of my serger!  Is she sexy or what?!?!:

In any case, if you happen to be lucky enough to have a hot lady like this at your side, run over the zig-zag seam you just did, and ta-da, you’re done!

If, sadly, you don’t own a serger, run a second zig-zag seam about 1/4″ from the last one to make sure you’re double secured.  Back up your stitches, and you’re done too!

Smooth Gown Sew-A-Long

So after dancing smooth at my last competition in my standard gown, I decided it was time to dedicate a dress to the style.  I invite you all to sew along as I invent a dress.  Invent is the key word here.  I’ll be looking at McCalls 5236 (ballroom dance dress) and Butterick 4343 (princess line dress) as the basis, but I’m going to just wing it.  C’mon it’ll be fun!

The style we’re going for is something like this (I don’t like her fabric choices, but if you do, the dress is for sale here):

The idea is that it’ll be a paneled bodice out of 4-way stretch that gives way to godets made from a lighter fabric for the skirt, which is also appropriate for a float.  How hard could this be?  

Here’s the fabric we’re going to work and the concept on the dress form:

Oh, and here’s the best part: we get to play with my new machine!  Introducing my new serger, still sad and lonely in the box because I’ve been too busy to play.

Phew all this getting ready, and then blogging about getting ready, wore me out.  Now it’s nap time.  When I wake up, we’ll start having a look at the patterns & design.

Costuming for the Ultimate Music Awards

<Note: I wrote most of this post immediately following my studio’s October showcase.  It’s now the end of February.  Filled in where I could. Oops.>

My studio’s October showcase, “The Ultimate Music Awards” was a costuming adventure.  I danced in four numbers: a group Latin number, a tango with my professional, a hip-hop piece dressed in drag, and a cha-cha with my amateur partner.  As I obviously take costuming extremely seriously, getting ready was one part stress but three parts fun.

The group Latin number was a Madonna medley that opened the show.  In true Madonna spirit, we played to the professional fantasy and wore suiting separates with a lace top underneath.   Of all my numbers, this was the easiest, as not surprisingly, I have a closet full of suits.  That said, I didn’t wear any of them; I went for the pair of Zara black pants that I’ve kept hiding in a bottom drawer since they stopped fitting during law school (and thank you dancing they are almost too big now).  Because they had an open cuff at the bottom, I had to sew it closed because I kept catching my heel in it while turning.  I wore a black lace top I already owned (from…? Some mall store somewhere), and a blazer I bought at H&M years ago.  Ta-da!  Costume one, check.

My second number was a tango with my coach.  I didn’t want to wear my competition dress (boooo-ring) – I wanted the piece to have an artsy feel (especially since it was essentially just my silver standard routine with two smooth figures thrown in to make it seem “showy”).  I didn’t have time to sew an entirely new dress but I needed to come up with something.  I decided to go find a cocktail length dress and add a skirt to it.  I spent an entire morning running around to the discount stores: Ross, Nordstrom Rack, Forever 21, etc.  Nothing.  Finally I went to the Macy’s juniors department.  There it was, on sale for $15, a tight, stretchy, ruched dress.  You’ll never guess the color.  Red.  Ha.  I bought it and headed down the street to JoAnn’s.  I bought three and a half yards of black satin and came on home.  With a little help from my friends (thanks, Les!) I cut it into a circle skirt, attached it to the bottom of the dress, hemmed it, and ta-da!  A mermaid line dress was born.  I also ran around until I found a fascinator that I loved… how cool is that word?  A fascinator.  (If you don’t know what a fascinator is, check out this post for good pictures & a history lesson!).  I felt hot just wearing one.

Then I got to dress in drag.  My favorite.  We did a little boy band medly action… A-mazing!  Ross boys’ jeans + tight white tee + thrift store jean shirt (not jacket, shirt) + costume shop big cross + hat, glasses, and microphone + ace bandage for the breasts + rubber banded sock for the cock = boy band of amazing.

Last but not least, I got to pay homage to bad pop and dress up like Katy Perry.  Yes.  Yes, I did.  This costume was actually also quite easy.  Don’t you have a black bra covered in rose swarovski lying around your house?  Well I do.  Honestly.  A pair of Lululemon shorts with 4″ black fringe sewed hastily on (warning, don’t sew over the waistband – it will stop stretching and you won’t be able to put them on!) made the bottoms.  Then a little creative jewelry from Claire’s (read: hot pink plastic with really expensive stones glued on).  And the best part of it all: a blue wig.  Oh yeah.  Thanks to my lil sis for teaching me how to bobby pin that sucker on well enough to dance through a show.

And that’s a wrap.  Can’t wait for the next one.

Tags: Circle Skirt, Designing, Drag, Fascinator, Hemming, Hip-Hop, International Latin, Lace, Mermaid Line, Satin, Sewing Help & Advice, Showcase, Swarovski, Tango, Wig

Gifts for dancers: heating pads

During the holidays, I decided that the perfect gift for my coach would be a heating pad.  Great for sore muscles and easy to make!

Here’s what you need to make your own:

• muslin or other simple, sturdy fabric (pre-wash)
• flannel or other soft fabric (pre-wash)
• long grain rice
• herbs for aromatherapy (stores like JoAnn’s carry packets in the candle section)
• velcro
• coordinating thread

How to make the pouch for rice:

Use the muslin to make a pouch that will hold the rice.  You can make nearly any size or shape, and proceed like you’re making a pillow.  Sew three sides together.  I recommend a double seam here because rice has a way of working its way through stitches of any length.  Turn inside out, fill with rice (and aromatherapy goodness if you’re going there).  Don’t overfill or your final product won’t have any flexibility.  Also, if you’re making a shape that’s particularly wide, or long, you might consider sewing a center seam once you’ve turned your fabric to divide the pouch into sections.  This will keep the rice held into place better (see the picture above).  Sew up the third side (again double seamed).  Because this pouch will be inside the flannel cover, I don’t mind having exposed raw edges.  But if you do, you may want to hand sew this final part closed.

How to make the outside covering:

Add an inch in every direction to the measurements you used to cut the pouch that holds the rice.  Similarly, make a little pillow (3 sides together then turn).  I used velcro to close the third side.  To do this, I folded down the raw edge, pinned the velcro to the inside, and sewed it right in.  You do end up with some exposed stitching on the front side; be sure to match thread accordingly.

Voilà.  You have a heating pad in an hour or less.  To use it, just put it in the microwave for a few minutes.  Be careful: over time as the rice ages and dries out, it could catch fire if you leave it in too long!  One solution is to put a cup of water in the microwave with it so there’s some humidity as it heats up.  Just remember to keep an eye on things.  And enjoy!

Tags: Flannel, Gifts, JoAnn's Fabrics, Muslin, Stitches, Velcro